Due to the numerous social committments while with my family and friends in Bogota, I could not take the time to post an entry while I was away. I arrived in Paris on Dec. 13, after a wonderful month away. This visit I was able to spend a lot of time with my mom and my sisters as well as with some good friends.
The first weekend of my arrival, we had our 40 High School reunion at one of my classmate's holiday home about 3 hours away from Bogota in a place called Guaduas. The Organizing Committee was able to gather 21 of us ladies for a three-day weekend. We had a wonderful time, ate some great food, and shared some fabulous memories together. I had not seen several of my classmates since graduation, but the reconnetion was immediate. We all came away somewhat renewed and very happy to have shared this time together.
Back in Bogota, where the temperature was ideal, I took up walking early in the morning. I would have an early breakfast and go out for about an hour. It is great to walk around my mom's house before the heavy traffic starts. Once it does, it is pretty bad. I have never seen so many taxis in my life. I cannot say I developed a routine, but I tried to go out as often as I could.
Because of the fact that my sisters are very busy, I kept them company running errands and going shopping. The idea was to spend as much time together as possible. I usually spent the morning wth my mom once I got back from my walks. I helped her get ready sometimes, did her hair and spent some quality time together. She had her memory therapy twice a week in the mornings and in the afternoon, she usually had a game of Bridge whether at home or away. This is the one thing that she loves and keeps her going.
Living away makes you feel very special when you go back home. Everyone invites you places, everyone wants to see you, so that was the case with me. I even had to get an agenda to keep up with the invitations. Sometimes I had breakfast, lunch, tea and dinner in one day! I thouroughly enjoyed it ,though. My niece Paula is getting married on January 13, so my sisters and us had a lovely shower for her at my sister Ines' home. It was a lovely affair and it gave us the opportunity to meet her future husband's family.
I went out to eat quite a lot, and I must say I had two of the best dinners I have ever had in two different restaurants in Bogota. One is called Leo Cocina y Cava and the other, Cadaques. They each have unique food, totally different from one another, but dining there was a true experience.
My last weekend in Colombia was spent at my brother Diego's farm in Quindio, the coffee growing area of Colombia, and one of the most beautiful places one can see on earth. My sister Marta and I took my mother with us to meet her sister there, since the two of them will be spending the Holidays with my brother and his family. The weather was gorgeous, the place full of birds of all types, lush vegetation, greens like I have never seen, and of course, superb food. We spent three days there, and needless to say saying good bye was extremely difficult.
Being back on Biesbosch with Bill is great. He has done a lot more work on the boat. The central heating is working great, and the boat is very cozy and warm inside. We are preparing for our family's visit and our Holidays together. We have put up Christmas lights on the boat, as well as a tiny Christmas tree. My sister Ines and her son are in Paris with Sylvia, my niece, and will be going to Barcelona this weekend before they come to Briare. Our son, Ian will arrive on the 19, Ines and her family will be coming on the 21, and the rest of the "troop" on the 23. We cannot wait to be together again. For our children it will be a very special time to be spent with their cousins.
We hope all of you who read this blog have a wonderful Holiday season and a wonderful New Year.
Friday, December 15, 2006
Thursday, December 14, 2006
Monday, November 06, 2006
TO SANCERRE WITH STELLA AND JUSTO
Due to high winds, which would make navigation difficult, we decided to take the car and tour the area. We went to see the beautiful town of Apremont, the Pont Canal de Guetin, and the round lock nearby. We wanted to take Justo and Stella to a well known restaurant, that specializes in Charolais meat, but to our dismay, it was closed. We were getting very hungry, and luckily we found an open restaurant called La Grenouille, which from the front did not look like much, but which turned out to be rather cozy and good. In the afternoon we drove to Bourges, one of my favorite cities in the center of France. We visited the cathedral which has some of the prettiest stained glass windows, as well as portals and doors. We walked around the old town, which was home to Georges Sands. The half-timbered houses are beautifully preserved, many of them with carved wooden columns and beautiful windows.
We returned to the boat, had our usual wine, and of course, a wonderfully prepared dinner by Justo.
The next day ,cast off around 10:00 AM direction Nevers. It was a balmy day, a beautiful one for navigation. We tied up the boat to the side of the canal, and this time Stella and I prepared a simple lunch for all of us. We planned to go out to dinner in Nevers, so we did not want to eat too much. We arrived at the Port de la Jonction, moored in front of the Capitainerie, and after a little cocktail, walked up to the phone booth to make a few phone calls. By the time we were done with our calls, it had gotten too dark to walk across the river to go to town, so we decided to try the Restaurant de la Marine across from the canal. While Bill and I were in Nevers, we noticed that it was always crowded, which is always a good sign. We walked to it, and a lovely young lady showed us to our table upstairs. The place has been redone in warm colors, but the house is old with exposed wooden beams, very charming. We had a great dinner of mussels in a cream fraiche sauce, and a sea food casserole with saffron. The wine was great, and a lovely evening was had by all.
Before ten in the morning, we were on route to Marseilles-les- Aubigny, a 26 Km. run from Nevers. It was a great day of cruising through countryside, farms and chateaux. Since the locks close between 12:00 and 1:00 PM, we decided to stop just before one of the locks to have lunch. However, the lock keeper took his time and did not show up until 2:30 PM.
We had some shrimp, so Justo grilled it on deck, along with some fresh endives. So we had our lovely lunch accompanied by a great Pouilly Fume--this is the region -- and enjoyed another gourmet treat made by Justo. Just as we were finishing up, the lock keeper showed, we passed the lock, and continued on our way, going by the lovely stop at Cours-les-Barres, where we had spent a night with Skip and Jill, and then the lock at Beffes, where we had met our friends Dominique and Nicolas on the way to Decize. We arrived in Marseilles around 5:00 PM, tied up the boat to a pontoon at the end of the port, in front of the park. This town is very interesting, since it has quite a few commercial barges tied up, a dry dock, and also a port for pleasure barges, right in the middle of town. As soon as we arrived we were out exploring the tiny village, which had a grocery store, a bakery, a beauty salon and a post office. At the City hall there was an information center. Stella and I inquired about an open market, and the lady told us that they did have one, but only one vendor came, a cheese maker! Stella and I went to the bakery, where the owner, and odd looking lady, sold us some pastry which we bought the boys for dessert. We could not figure out if she looked like a witch on purpose, or if she was dressed for Halloween. This was only Oct. 26. Our dinner consisted of meats of all sorts cooked on a hot stone, accompanied by different sauces and a lovely salad. Needless to say, wines of the region were consumed that night.
The next day, the most gorgeous day of navigation, it was warm, so after breakfast, and under a sunny sky, we left for Menetreol sous Sancerre, from where Stella and Justo would be leaving the following day. This day was just like summer, so when we stopped for lunch, Stella surprised us by setting up a picnic on the side of the canal at Herry, in front of a beautiful chatelet with its own pond. She decorated an improvised table with flowers and autumn leaves, while Justo and I prepared a delicious chicken Caesar's salad. We sat on the grass and had the most beautiful lunch, accompanied by a chilled Blanc de Blancs.
Justo and Stella wanted to take us out to dinner in Sancerre, which is quite a hike up the hill from Menetreol, so as soon as we tied up the boat around 4:00 PM, I called a taxi and we all got ready to go see the town. The taxi driver, Myriam, was a very nice lady, whom we contracted to pick us up after dinner, and to take Justo and Stella to Cosne the next day so they could take the train to Paris. As we arrived in Sancerre, we walked around the edge of the hill to see the Valley below, a breathtaking view from above. Stella and I did some shopping and then we went to Alphonse Mellot, a fabulous winemaker of Sacerre wines. We tasted quite a few wines and bought some as well. Fernanda, the girl who took care of us, was Portuguese, so she and Justo hit it off right away. We spent quite some time there, and then went to Joseph Mellot's restaurant to have a drink before dinner. It is quite amusing for us Americans to ask for a drink in France, even at a bar, and be told they have no ice. It has happened several times. The one drink the French drink with ice is Pastis. The guys ordered one, Stella and I a Whiskey, and somehow, the ice appeared.
After our drinks, we walked to the Restaurant de la Tour, the best in town, and we were immediately taken to our table by the Maitre D. The decor was modern, warm and elegant, and the dinner was fantastic. They gave us a "mis en bouche",an "interlude" and a pre-dessert. Everything we ate was superb and beautifully presented, a true delight for the senses. The second bottle of wine we ordered was corked, so they very graciously gave us another. We arrived at 7:30 and left at 10:30 PM. Myriam picked us up and back to the boat.
The next morning, after breakfast, Justo and Stella got their luggage ready and waited for Myriam to pick them up promptly at 10:15 AM. As always, it was so hard for me to say good bye. We had such a good time with them and they were such wonderful guests, that we hated to see them go. Fortunately we shall see each other again in Florida in January. After their departure, I moped about for a while and then spent the rest of the morning cleaning around. In the afternoon, Bill and I took a long walk along the canal to St. Satur and back, had a quiet dinner, and really felt our dear friends' absence.
BACK TO BRIARE
We spent another night in Menetreol, so the following morning, after breakfast, we took a walk across the canal to the Loire. It was balmy, almost hot, a great time for a hike. In the afternoon, I made a couple of phone calls, and then, in the evening, it started to rain. Bill worked some more on the central heating. On the 29th, we set off on a foggy morning, not cold, and between locks, I did a bit of step dancing. At the lock where we had bought the Sancerre wines before, we waited over an hour for the lock keeper to show up. We tied up alongside a boat already waiting, and had our lunch. While in the lock, we bought some more wine, and the lock keeper informed us that he had 4 locks to work that day. It was Sunday, and I noticed when he arrived that he was already a bit tipsy. We decided to spend the night in Belleville, a gorgeous little town with a beautiful mooring, but after we tied up, we realized that everything was closed, and we were not going to get electricity for the night. We continued on to Beaulieu, a stop we had made before, but noticed the same lock keeper was not there. We tied the boat up, I walked to the lock, and saw that he had left his cell phone on the desk. There was a phone number to call in case of emergency, and as I dialed, the phone on the desk was the one I was calling. We were rather frustrated, since he had made us wait so long at lunch time.
Down from the lock there was a beautiful house with a rear terrace, where a couple of young girls were smoking a cigarette. I asked them if they knew when the lock keeper was going to arrive--first day of day light savings--and the locks would be closing within the hour. They said they would ask their grandfather. He came out of the house, walked over to the boat and told us the lock keeper would eventually show up. When we told him we were Americans, he said, "Je n'aime pas les Americains, mais venez boire un verre avec nous." I did not know what to say! This guy does not like Americans, but is inviting us to his house to have a drink? He would not hear "No" for an answer, so we complied. When we went in, the whole family was there, daughters, sons in law, grand daughters, wife, etc. The house, 150 years old, had been redone beautifully, under floor heating, original wooden beams, great fireplace, the works.
They are all very classy Parisians, who have this as their country retreat. Each daughter has a part of the house, and Grandpa, who is 77 years old, and looks 65, seems to be the one who calls the shots. What a character! By the time we left, we had had two bottles of wine, and knew everything about one another. We invited them over to see Biesbosch, and they loved it. They had never been inside a boat before. Needles to say, we stayed at that spot for the night and would have not traded this beautiful experience for all the electricity in the world. They told us to come by at Christmas time with my family, because they will be there for the holidays. This expierence, as many others, negates the stereotypes of Parisians.
That night, the lock keeper's supervisor called me-- my number was registered in his telephone-- to let me know that someone would be at the lock whenever we wanted the next morning. At 9:30 someone was there, soon after Bill had fixed the electrical problem. To this day, 5 days later, it is still working. The run to Briare was gorgeous, and the town greeted us with bright sunshine, as did our friends Nicolas and Dominique.. We were showed to our wintering spot, at the end of the port basin, in front of a small restaurant, by the "Rialto" bridge, in front of the tree lined old canal, a most beautiful view. We feel very lucky to have found such a great town for our winter mooring. Our friends Dominique and Nicolas will be here, as well as an Irish and English couple with whom we had tea the other day. Yesterday, November 1, was the first cold day we have had. We went to St. Leger with Nicolas and Dominique to pick up our car. It is so great to have it here to continue exploring this beautiful region. In the morning, we went for a long walk to the river and found a most gorgeous beach, where we want to go for a picnic one of this days. The river there is like a mirror, and I cannot wait to go there again. Today it is sunny and cold, 4 degrees C. As I write, Bill is working on the central heating system.
Paella with Tristan and Paulette, Nevers
St. Leger, dukcs and Lucky Duck
Justo and Stella on deck
Stella and Sylvia
Stella, Cercy-la-Tour
Cercy-la-Tour with horses
Relaxing time for The Azpiazus
Nevers, sunset cocktail
Grilled shrimp and endives on deck
Waiting for lock keeper
A beautiful idea at lock
Mooring at Marseilles-les-Aubigny
Picnic with champagne at Herry
Menetreol and Sancerre
View of St. Satur and The Loire from Sancerre
Wine tasting at Sancerre
Sylvia at the helm
Entering the Pont Canal de Briare
Port de Commerce, Briare
Coming into Briare
Last lock!
Friends welcome us back
At home for the winter
Port de Plaisance, Briare
Briare, view from stern
The old Canal de Briare
Falling leaves
Temperature on Nov 1, at 9;00 am
Frost on ropes
We returned to the boat, had our usual wine, and of course, a wonderfully prepared dinner by Justo.
The next day ,cast off around 10:00 AM direction Nevers. It was a balmy day, a beautiful one for navigation. We tied up the boat to the side of the canal, and this time Stella and I prepared a simple lunch for all of us. We planned to go out to dinner in Nevers, so we did not want to eat too much. We arrived at the Port de la Jonction, moored in front of the Capitainerie, and after a little cocktail, walked up to the phone booth to make a few phone calls. By the time we were done with our calls, it had gotten too dark to walk across the river to go to town, so we decided to try the Restaurant de la Marine across from the canal. While Bill and I were in Nevers, we noticed that it was always crowded, which is always a good sign. We walked to it, and a lovely young lady showed us to our table upstairs. The place has been redone in warm colors, but the house is old with exposed wooden beams, very charming. We had a great dinner of mussels in a cream fraiche sauce, and a sea food casserole with saffron. The wine was great, and a lovely evening was had by all.
Before ten in the morning, we were on route to Marseilles-les- Aubigny, a 26 Km. run from Nevers. It was a great day of cruising through countryside, farms and chateaux. Since the locks close between 12:00 and 1:00 PM, we decided to stop just before one of the locks to have lunch. However, the lock keeper took his time and did not show up until 2:30 PM.
We had some shrimp, so Justo grilled it on deck, along with some fresh endives. So we had our lovely lunch accompanied by a great Pouilly Fume--this is the region -- and enjoyed another gourmet treat made by Justo. Just as we were finishing up, the lock keeper showed, we passed the lock, and continued on our way, going by the lovely stop at Cours-les-Barres, where we had spent a night with Skip and Jill, and then the lock at Beffes, where we had met our friends Dominique and Nicolas on the way to Decize. We arrived in Marseilles around 5:00 PM, tied up the boat to a pontoon at the end of the port, in front of the park. This town is very interesting, since it has quite a few commercial barges tied up, a dry dock, and also a port for pleasure barges, right in the middle of town. As soon as we arrived we were out exploring the tiny village, which had a grocery store, a bakery, a beauty salon and a post office. At the City hall there was an information center. Stella and I inquired about an open market, and the lady told us that they did have one, but only one vendor came, a cheese maker! Stella and I went to the bakery, where the owner, and odd looking lady, sold us some pastry which we bought the boys for dessert. We could not figure out if she looked like a witch on purpose, or if she was dressed for Halloween. This was only Oct. 26. Our dinner consisted of meats of all sorts cooked on a hot stone, accompanied by different sauces and a lovely salad. Needless to say, wines of the region were consumed that night.
The next day, the most gorgeous day of navigation, it was warm, so after breakfast, and under a sunny sky, we left for Menetreol sous Sancerre, from where Stella and Justo would be leaving the following day. This day was just like summer, so when we stopped for lunch, Stella surprised us by setting up a picnic on the side of the canal at Herry, in front of a beautiful chatelet with its own pond. She decorated an improvised table with flowers and autumn leaves, while Justo and I prepared a delicious chicken Caesar's salad. We sat on the grass and had the most beautiful lunch, accompanied by a chilled Blanc de Blancs.
Justo and Stella wanted to take us out to dinner in Sancerre, which is quite a hike up the hill from Menetreol, so as soon as we tied up the boat around 4:00 PM, I called a taxi and we all got ready to go see the town. The taxi driver, Myriam, was a very nice lady, whom we contracted to pick us up after dinner, and to take Justo and Stella to Cosne the next day so they could take the train to Paris. As we arrived in Sancerre, we walked around the edge of the hill to see the Valley below, a breathtaking view from above. Stella and I did some shopping and then we went to Alphonse Mellot, a fabulous winemaker of Sacerre wines. We tasted quite a few wines and bought some as well. Fernanda, the girl who took care of us, was Portuguese, so she and Justo hit it off right away. We spent quite some time there, and then went to Joseph Mellot's restaurant to have a drink before dinner. It is quite amusing for us Americans to ask for a drink in France, even at a bar, and be told they have no ice. It has happened several times. The one drink the French drink with ice is Pastis. The guys ordered one, Stella and I a Whiskey, and somehow, the ice appeared.
After our drinks, we walked to the Restaurant de la Tour, the best in town, and we were immediately taken to our table by the Maitre D. The decor was modern, warm and elegant, and the dinner was fantastic. They gave us a "mis en bouche",an "interlude" and a pre-dessert. Everything we ate was superb and beautifully presented, a true delight for the senses. The second bottle of wine we ordered was corked, so they very graciously gave us another. We arrived at 7:30 and left at 10:30 PM. Myriam picked us up and back to the boat.
The next morning, after breakfast, Justo and Stella got their luggage ready and waited for Myriam to pick them up promptly at 10:15 AM. As always, it was so hard for me to say good bye. We had such a good time with them and they were such wonderful guests, that we hated to see them go. Fortunately we shall see each other again in Florida in January. After their departure, I moped about for a while and then spent the rest of the morning cleaning around. In the afternoon, Bill and I took a long walk along the canal to St. Satur and back, had a quiet dinner, and really felt our dear friends' absence.
BACK TO BRIARE
We spent another night in Menetreol, so the following morning, after breakfast, we took a walk across the canal to the Loire. It was balmy, almost hot, a great time for a hike. In the afternoon, I made a couple of phone calls, and then, in the evening, it started to rain. Bill worked some more on the central heating. On the 29th, we set off on a foggy morning, not cold, and between locks, I did a bit of step dancing. At the lock where we had bought the Sancerre wines before, we waited over an hour for the lock keeper to show up. We tied up alongside a boat already waiting, and had our lunch. While in the lock, we bought some more wine, and the lock keeper informed us that he had 4 locks to work that day. It was Sunday, and I noticed when he arrived that he was already a bit tipsy. We decided to spend the night in Belleville, a gorgeous little town with a beautiful mooring, but after we tied up, we realized that everything was closed, and we were not going to get electricity for the night. We continued on to Beaulieu, a stop we had made before, but noticed the same lock keeper was not there. We tied the boat up, I walked to the lock, and saw that he had left his cell phone on the desk. There was a phone number to call in case of emergency, and as I dialed, the phone on the desk was the one I was calling. We were rather frustrated, since he had made us wait so long at lunch time.
Down from the lock there was a beautiful house with a rear terrace, where a couple of young girls were smoking a cigarette. I asked them if they knew when the lock keeper was going to arrive--first day of day light savings--and the locks would be closing within the hour. They said they would ask their grandfather. He came out of the house, walked over to the boat and told us the lock keeper would eventually show up. When we told him we were Americans, he said, "Je n'aime pas les Americains, mais venez boire un verre avec nous." I did not know what to say! This guy does not like Americans, but is inviting us to his house to have a drink? He would not hear "No" for an answer, so we complied. When we went in, the whole family was there, daughters, sons in law, grand daughters, wife, etc. The house, 150 years old, had been redone beautifully, under floor heating, original wooden beams, great fireplace, the works.
They are all very classy Parisians, who have this as their country retreat. Each daughter has a part of the house, and Grandpa, who is 77 years old, and looks 65, seems to be the one who calls the shots. What a character! By the time we left, we had had two bottles of wine, and knew everything about one another. We invited them over to see Biesbosch, and they loved it. They had never been inside a boat before. Needles to say, we stayed at that spot for the night and would have not traded this beautiful experience for all the electricity in the world. They told us to come by at Christmas time with my family, because they will be there for the holidays. This expierence, as many others, negates the stereotypes of Parisians.
That night, the lock keeper's supervisor called me-- my number was registered in his telephone-- to let me know that someone would be at the lock whenever we wanted the next morning. At 9:30 someone was there, soon after Bill had fixed the electrical problem. To this day, 5 days later, it is still working. The run to Briare was gorgeous, and the town greeted us with bright sunshine, as did our friends Nicolas and Dominique.. We were showed to our wintering spot, at the end of the port basin, in front of a small restaurant, by the "Rialto" bridge, in front of the tree lined old canal, a most beautiful view. We feel very lucky to have found such a great town for our winter mooring. Our friends Dominique and Nicolas will be here, as well as an Irish and English couple with whom we had tea the other day. Yesterday, November 1, was the first cold day we have had. We went to St. Leger with Nicolas and Dominique to pick up our car. It is so great to have it here to continue exploring this beautiful region. In the morning, we went for a long walk to the river and found a most gorgeous beach, where we want to go for a picnic one of this days. The river there is like a mirror, and I cannot wait to go there again. Today it is sunny and cold, 4 degrees C. As I write, Bill is working on the central heating system.
Paella with Tristan and Paulette, Nevers
St. Leger, dukcs and Lucky Duck
Justo and Stella on deck
Stella and Sylvia
Stella, Cercy-la-Tour
Cercy-la-Tour with horses
Relaxing time for The Azpiazus
Nevers, sunset cocktail
Grilled shrimp and endives on deck
Waiting for lock keeper
A beautiful idea at lock
Mooring at Marseilles-les-Aubigny
Picnic with champagne at Herry
Menetreol and Sancerre
View of St. Satur and The Loire from Sancerre
Wine tasting at Sancerre
Sylvia at the helm
Entering the Pont Canal de Briare
Port de Commerce, Briare
Coming into Briare
Last lock!
Friends welcome us back
At home for the winter
Port de Plaisance, Briare
Briare, view from stern
The old Canal de Briare
Falling leaves
Temperature on Nov 1, at 9;00 am
Frost on ropes
Tuesday, October 24, 2006
WITH JUSTO AND STELLA
Having Stella and Justo with us has been a real treat. They met us at St. Leger des Vignes, the port of Decize, where they came to in the early afternoon. They had had a very long ride from Valence, so we decided to relax on the boat and have some wine and a few chips and things. We had a fabulous afternoon talking and catching up, and in the evening I cooked a light dinner for all of us, had some more wine and then Justo and Stella had their lesson on setting up their beds so the wheelhouse could become their bedroom. They have now spent three nights with us,and have become masters at setting it up and dismantelingt it.
We were worried that they might not be comfortable there, but they slept well, so wewere ready for a new day the next morning. As usual, Bill went out to get fresh bread and croissants, had a good little breakfast. After getting ready, we decided to sail south on the Canal de Nivernais to the little town of Cercy la Tour, only about 16 Kms from here. It was a beautiful and sunny day, a true fall day, so Justo and Stella's first experience, on Biesbosch was a fine one. They spent most of the time at the bow, taking advantage of the fine weather, making sure they would not miss anything. Stella and I made a light lunch for all and continued to Cercy, where we arrived about 6:00 PM. The pontoons were set in front of a beautiful horse farm, and at a point where the canal meets the river Aaron. We were supposed to get electricity, but being Sunday, nobody from the City Hall came to connect it, so we had to run our electrics on the batteries. We took a walk up to the village, a very small one with little church, post office, bakery and a bar by the port that belonged to a man from South Africa.
After our little tour, we sat down with our wine, and Justo prepared a fabulous cock au vin for us. Next morning around 10:30 AM, we left Cercy to come back to St. Leger. At the last lock there is a Champion supermarket, right by the canal, so we tied up the boat and went to do some shopping. We needed to stock up especially in the wines, wich are being consumed in great quantities. We loaded our groceries from the quay to the boat, and back to St. Leger. We spent the rest of the afternoon organizing and cleaning up, and in the evening, we prepared a lovely meal of pork chops, creamed spinach, and a dish of potato and buttenut squash. It was superb! I cannot believe how fabulous Justo's cooking is. He is such a good sport about cooking in a small kitchen, about 1/5 the size of his own.
As we finished our meal, we could feel a storm coming. There was lightening and a lot of wind. We took my computer out and watched the video of my god daughter Sandy's wedding, which was like being there again. What a beautiful production that was! We so enjoyed it, and it was such a great ending to a wonderful evening! After midnight, Stella and I did the dishes and went to sleep, only to be awakened a few times by the wind banging the boat against the quay. It was quite strong. This morning, it is still windy, so we are not navigating today. We are taking the car to go to Bourges and Nevers so they can visit these cities.
We are loving our visit with our dear friends. They are not only great travelers, but real troopers as well. More later.
We were worried that they might not be comfortable there, but they slept well, so wewere ready for a new day the next morning. As usual, Bill went out to get fresh bread and croissants, had a good little breakfast. After getting ready, we decided to sail south on the Canal de Nivernais to the little town of Cercy la Tour, only about 16 Kms from here. It was a beautiful and sunny day, a true fall day, so Justo and Stella's first experience, on Biesbosch was a fine one. They spent most of the time at the bow, taking advantage of the fine weather, making sure they would not miss anything. Stella and I made a light lunch for all and continued to Cercy, where we arrived about 6:00 PM. The pontoons were set in front of a beautiful horse farm, and at a point where the canal meets the river Aaron. We were supposed to get electricity, but being Sunday, nobody from the City Hall came to connect it, so we had to run our electrics on the batteries. We took a walk up to the village, a very small one with little church, post office, bakery and a bar by the port that belonged to a man from South Africa.
After our little tour, we sat down with our wine, and Justo prepared a fabulous cock au vin for us. Next morning around 10:30 AM, we left Cercy to come back to St. Leger. At the last lock there is a Champion supermarket, right by the canal, so we tied up the boat and went to do some shopping. We needed to stock up especially in the wines, wich are being consumed in great quantities. We loaded our groceries from the quay to the boat, and back to St. Leger. We spent the rest of the afternoon organizing and cleaning up, and in the evening, we prepared a lovely meal of pork chops, creamed spinach, and a dish of potato and buttenut squash. It was superb! I cannot believe how fabulous Justo's cooking is. He is such a good sport about cooking in a small kitchen, about 1/5 the size of his own.
As we finished our meal, we could feel a storm coming. There was lightening and a lot of wind. We took my computer out and watched the video of my god daughter Sandy's wedding, which was like being there again. What a beautiful production that was! We so enjoyed it, and it was such a great ending to a wonderful evening! After midnight, Stella and I did the dishes and went to sleep, only to be awakened a few times by the wind banging the boat against the quay. It was quite strong. This morning, it is still windy, so we are not navigating today. We are taking the car to go to Bourges and Nevers so they can visit these cities.
We are loving our visit with our dear friends. They are not only great travelers, but real troopers as well. More later.
Tuesday, October 17, 2006
TO NEVERS ON THE CANAL LATERAL A LA LOIRE
We made a start from Beaulieu after breakfast on a balmy and sunny morning. Jill and I spend practically all of our navigating time on deck since neither one of us wanted to miss anything. After Lere, we had to stop before the lock to have our lunch. At the lock, the keeper was selling Sancerre wine, so Skipper bought a few bottles for us. There were some beautiful farmhouses and chateaux along the way. We had a good day of navigation, and arrived at Menetreol sous Sancerre around 5:30 PM. A white-bearded British man whose narrow boat was there helped us tie the boat up at this lovely spot, just below the town of Sancerre. To get hooked up to electricity, we had to knock on the door of the house across the street. The man in charge was a very charming and helpful man who was delighted to accept a beer I offered, but only if he could drink it at home.
Having arrived at the time of our "aperitif," we sat and had some of our Sancerre wine and a few goodies, and after dinner decided to go out and explore this little town. It was dark already, but we could not wait to see the town in daylight. We did just that after a good night sleep, and did find the town incredibly charming and unspoiled. It had a very intimate little square whose houses were incredibly small and quaint. This village had the peculiarity of having lots of beautiful cats. We decided to look for a place to eat by the water's edge, and of the two restaurants chose the one where all the locals seemed to be eating. We ate outside and took quite a long time doing so. After lunch we walked to the town of Sancerre, which is about three Kms. uphill from Menetreol. We took the shortest path, right through the vineyards and got to taste some of the Sauvignon grapes ripe from the vine. That day they were harvesting! On the lower slopes, it was being done by machine, fascinating to watch, and as we approached Sancerre, on the higher slopes, a group of about 12 people were picking them by hand. It was a treat to watch them and talk to them about the process. They were picking Pinot Noir grapes for a winemaker in Sancerre. The head of the group told us about how much he missed the harvest times of a few years back. He and all of his workers could eat together and sleep in tents while the harvest was taking place. Now, he says, all they are interested in is the profit. Tradition has been thrown out the window. He seemed truly upset about it as he talked to us.
The walk through the vineyards was magical, but hard. We could see the Feudal Tower of Sancerre nearby, but had to go around the hill to get to it. The town is gorgeous and the view from the tower is breathtaking, the Valley of the Loire below. If it weren't for the fact that we could see a few cars, one would think to be still in the Middle Ages. To get to the tower, we had to climb over two hundred steps. We walked around the town and inquired about a restaurant where we could celebrate Jill and Skipper's 26th wedding anniversary the next day. A few were recommended, some of them closed the next day, so we opted to go check the Restaurant des Augustins with a panoramic view, reason for which we had to go around the hill, in descent, this time. We were so tired that we called a taxi to drive us back to the port. That night we decided we would continue on the next day and take our chances with a restaurant wherever we would wind up.
We left in the fog through a lovely stretch of the canal, lines of trees on both sides. We tied up for lunch for about 45 minutes, and soon after had to stop and tie the boat to check an electrical problem. The batteries were not being charged. Bill figured it out, we continued on and tied up for the night next to a type of factory in La Chapelle Mountinard, which is a stop in the pilgrimage to Santiago de Compostela. The town of La Charite sur Loire is about 2 Kms--this time on leveled ground--from the canal, and it is on the river. We went into town to check it out, and immediately went into the Church of Notre Dame, which was only second to Cluny in size during the Middle Ages. There were some narrow little streets full of bookstores and beautiful architecture all around. We ate at La Pomme d'Or, as for recommendation of a local. It had local cuisine, hardy and good, and we had a lovely meal with Skip and Jill. We asked for a taxi, but none were to be found, so Madame told us her husband would be happy to drive us back. Well, he turned out to be the chef! We could not believe it, but gracefully accepted. Only in France, will this happen.
The next day the canal stretch from La Chapelle, was not particularly pretty, since there was a lot of industry and cornfields. Just before our stop at Cours les Barres it became beautiful. Just before lunch time, as we were about to approach a lock, a boat called El Majo passed us in the opposite direction. As, always, I said hello, and the lady on board recognized our name and yelled. She said they were Ana Ines and Jacques' friends, the couple who live on The Maritime Alps. They said they would be tying up by the lock so we could talk. As we went into the lock, I talked to the "eclusier" and asked him if we could eat inside the lock. Having explained the situation, he was delighted to comply. The people are Dominique and Nicolas, who knew our friends when both couples had sailboats, and had met on the Caribean over ten years ago. They are now barging in France. They had heard from our friends that we would be traveling on this canal, and to watch out for us. What a small world! After all, in a country that has over 5000 miles of navigble waters, what are the odds? The most incredible thing is that they are going to winter in Briare, same place where Biesbosch will be. From the lock, I could see the bakery, so Jill and I stepped off quickly and brought a lunch of quiches and meat pies, had a good bottle of wine, and got to spend a short, but wonderful time with our new friends, whom we will be seeing in a few weeks back in Briare. We were supposed to moor elsewhere for the night, but Nicolas and Dominique told us about this new place at Cours les Barres. We got there around 3:00 PM, so there was only one other boat. The quay was new, the place was a small park with picnic tables and barbecues set up, and coming down from the City Hall, a small waterfall with fountain, which was lit up at night. I did a couple of loads of Laundry while Bill and our friends played petanque. It was a gorgeous spot and an unforgettable evening.
The next day we left shortly before noon, very excited because we were to cross another beautiful canal bridge, the Pont de Guetin, a stone canal bridge over the Allier. To get to it, we had to do two stepped locks that were 9 Mts. in height. We were the only boat doing it, and had quite a few spectators watching the boat going up and across the bridge. We had been there a few years ago watching boats go through, but did not imagine we would be doing it on our own boat. From there to Nevers, the canal was gorgeous, as was the tow path surfaced with red asphalt and tree lined on both sides. We made a right turn to come into the Port of Nevers, from where the tower of the church of St. Cyr can be seen. The pontoons are brand new, and the Capitanerie is modern and well equipped. It even has a little library with books in several languages. Most people, including us, leave books there in exchange for others. There used to be a lock that went down to the Loire, but it is closed now. Just before its entrance, and at the end of the port, they have built a water park with slides and four or five pools which operate in the summer.
The town of Nevers, home to The Ducs of Nevers has a strong Italian influence through marriage with the Gonzaga family. The Palace is in Renaissance Style with a beautiful square framed with gabled houses and a lovely garden. It is here that the oldest Italian style pottery factory in France is located just next to the city gate, landmark of Nevers. The church of St. Cyr is beautiful as well, especially the earlier Romanesque part of the church with an enormous fresco of Jesus. The stained glass windows, although modern are incredibly colorful, as are the dozens of gargoyles on its exterior.
We ate at a little Italian restaurant our first night, and the next day Bill and Skipper went to get a rental car for He and Jill to go back to Paris. They decided to take us with them so we could all go to Cambrai, they could see our home port, and we could pick up our car. We waited until the next day to go, and left rather early, since we wanted to take them to Auxerre, Chalon and then to Reims. We did just that, and in Reims went to visit the Basilica of St. Remy, on the day of The Saint. The church was looking gorgeous all lit up and they were about to start a very important ceremony. The Taittinger Champagne House is a block away, so we were able to make the English tour of the cellars. The guide was the same girl we had last year, a fabulous one, and Skip and Jill enjoyed it immensely.
We made it to Cambrai by 7:30 PM, found out that our friend Andrew was on Anfra, so Bill went there to talk to him, while I went with Skip and Jill to the Main Square to eat something. We were very warmly welcomed by Therese at La Chope, the little hotel where we stayed when we first went to Cambrai. After breakfast at La Chope, we went to the port, said hello to Gerard and Claudine at the Cafe de la Marine and picked up our mail. They invited us to stay with them for the night. We said good bye to Skip and Jill, and were very sad to see them drive away. Bill needed to get some parts for the central heating system, so wet went around different stores. At Gerard and Claudine's we had a lovely beef fondue and some fabulous wine from their cellar. After a very good night sleep, Bill was able to help Claudine install something for her dryer and decided we must go to Tournai, Belgium, where he could find the 15 mm. pipe he needed. The drive is only 45 minutes, and very successful. He found all he needed, had lunch in a lovely restaurant on the Main Square, bought some Belgian chocolate for our friends from The Petit Chef with whom we would be having dinner and spending the night. The whole family was there, including their son Matthieu from whom we had ordered the blinds for the wheelhouse. Dominique had prepared a most delicious paella, great dessert and good wines. We had a great time with our dear friends, spent the night at their house, and said a very emotional good bye. In the morning, on our way out, we went to see our friends Bernard and Nicole, who had just returned from their vacation in the South. It was close to noon, so they insisted we stay for lunch. Nicole prepared a lovely salad nicoise in her very beautiful newly remodeled kitchen. They had brought us a beautiful bottle of wine, thinking of us, because of its label, Les Mariniers. They are so thoughtful and special, our friends in Cambrai. We were very sad to say good bye, but also certain that we will be going back as often as we can.
A SURPRISE VISIT
On our way back to Nevers, we got a call from our friend Dale, from California, who was in Denmark on a business trip, had had a meeting canceled in Paris, and was coming to see us. We were delighted with the news, so Friday, we picked him up at the train station in Nevers. He had come from Amsterdam, and was exhausted. We stayed on the boat, had some good wine and a lovely meal and a great evening. The next day we took Dale to see the city and its sights. In the afternoon we took a ride out to the Pot Canal, the round lock nearby, the lovely town of Apremont, a truly gorgeous little village on the banks of the river, and to see the confluence of The Loire and The Allier rivers. On Sunday, after a leisurely breakfast, we drove through the countryside of Burgundy on a clear and sunny day, to take Dale to Lyon from where he would be flying that evening to Lisbon. We saw some gorgeous chateaux, farms and lovely towns, and of course, some vineyards. We really enjoyed Dale's visit and hope he will bring his wife, Gail next year.
We will be in Nevers a few more days, since Bill is trying to solve the problem with the regulator. On Thursday I will be taking the train to Paris, where I will be meeting my friend Linda, a colleague from school who is here on vacation. On the 19th, our friends Stella and Justo will be arriving from Miami, so we will be cruising with them for a few days before we return to Briare.
Mooring at Cours les Barres
Intimidating luck of Guetin
Church of St. Cyr, Nevers
Palace of the Ducs of Nevers
La porte de Creux, Nevers
Beautiful Apremont
Dale's Miller time
Skip and Jill arrive in Briare
The Port of Briare
Biesbosch's beautiful flag over Bridge Canal de Briare
Village of Mentereol sous Sancerre
Arched viaduct over Mentereol
The vineyard of Sancerre
View of Sancerre from Feudal tower
Grape pickers, Sancerre
Syl and Jill enjoying the ride
Jill at Taittinger's cellars
Cathedral, Reims
The captain at his best
Having arrived at the time of our "aperitif," we sat and had some of our Sancerre wine and a few goodies, and after dinner decided to go out and explore this little town. It was dark already, but we could not wait to see the town in daylight. We did just that after a good night sleep, and did find the town incredibly charming and unspoiled. It had a very intimate little square whose houses were incredibly small and quaint. This village had the peculiarity of having lots of beautiful cats. We decided to look for a place to eat by the water's edge, and of the two restaurants chose the one where all the locals seemed to be eating. We ate outside and took quite a long time doing so. After lunch we walked to the town of Sancerre, which is about three Kms. uphill from Menetreol. We took the shortest path, right through the vineyards and got to taste some of the Sauvignon grapes ripe from the vine. That day they were harvesting! On the lower slopes, it was being done by machine, fascinating to watch, and as we approached Sancerre, on the higher slopes, a group of about 12 people were picking them by hand. It was a treat to watch them and talk to them about the process. They were picking Pinot Noir grapes for a winemaker in Sancerre. The head of the group told us about how much he missed the harvest times of a few years back. He and all of his workers could eat together and sleep in tents while the harvest was taking place. Now, he says, all they are interested in is the profit. Tradition has been thrown out the window. He seemed truly upset about it as he talked to us.
The walk through the vineyards was magical, but hard. We could see the Feudal Tower of Sancerre nearby, but had to go around the hill to get to it. The town is gorgeous and the view from the tower is breathtaking, the Valley of the Loire below. If it weren't for the fact that we could see a few cars, one would think to be still in the Middle Ages. To get to the tower, we had to climb over two hundred steps. We walked around the town and inquired about a restaurant where we could celebrate Jill and Skipper's 26th wedding anniversary the next day. A few were recommended, some of them closed the next day, so we opted to go check the Restaurant des Augustins with a panoramic view, reason for which we had to go around the hill, in descent, this time. We were so tired that we called a taxi to drive us back to the port. That night we decided we would continue on the next day and take our chances with a restaurant wherever we would wind up.
We left in the fog through a lovely stretch of the canal, lines of trees on both sides. We tied up for lunch for about 45 minutes, and soon after had to stop and tie the boat to check an electrical problem. The batteries were not being charged. Bill figured it out, we continued on and tied up for the night next to a type of factory in La Chapelle Mountinard, which is a stop in the pilgrimage to Santiago de Compostela. The town of La Charite sur Loire is about 2 Kms--this time on leveled ground--from the canal, and it is on the river. We went into town to check it out, and immediately went into the Church of Notre Dame, which was only second to Cluny in size during the Middle Ages. There were some narrow little streets full of bookstores and beautiful architecture all around. We ate at La Pomme d'Or, as for recommendation of a local. It had local cuisine, hardy and good, and we had a lovely meal with Skip and Jill. We asked for a taxi, but none were to be found, so Madame told us her husband would be happy to drive us back. Well, he turned out to be the chef! We could not believe it, but gracefully accepted. Only in France, will this happen.
The next day the canal stretch from La Chapelle, was not particularly pretty, since there was a lot of industry and cornfields. Just before our stop at Cours les Barres it became beautiful. Just before lunch time, as we were about to approach a lock, a boat called El Majo passed us in the opposite direction. As, always, I said hello, and the lady on board recognized our name and yelled. She said they were Ana Ines and Jacques' friends, the couple who live on The Maritime Alps. They said they would be tying up by the lock so we could talk. As we went into the lock, I talked to the "eclusier" and asked him if we could eat inside the lock. Having explained the situation, he was delighted to comply. The people are Dominique and Nicolas, who knew our friends when both couples had sailboats, and had met on the Caribean over ten years ago. They are now barging in France. They had heard from our friends that we would be traveling on this canal, and to watch out for us. What a small world! After all, in a country that has over 5000 miles of navigble waters, what are the odds? The most incredible thing is that they are going to winter in Briare, same place where Biesbosch will be. From the lock, I could see the bakery, so Jill and I stepped off quickly and brought a lunch of quiches and meat pies, had a good bottle of wine, and got to spend a short, but wonderful time with our new friends, whom we will be seeing in a few weeks back in Briare. We were supposed to moor elsewhere for the night, but Nicolas and Dominique told us about this new place at Cours les Barres. We got there around 3:00 PM, so there was only one other boat. The quay was new, the place was a small park with picnic tables and barbecues set up, and coming down from the City Hall, a small waterfall with fountain, which was lit up at night. I did a couple of loads of Laundry while Bill and our friends played petanque. It was a gorgeous spot and an unforgettable evening.
The next day we left shortly before noon, very excited because we were to cross another beautiful canal bridge, the Pont de Guetin, a stone canal bridge over the Allier. To get to it, we had to do two stepped locks that were 9 Mts. in height. We were the only boat doing it, and had quite a few spectators watching the boat going up and across the bridge. We had been there a few years ago watching boats go through, but did not imagine we would be doing it on our own boat. From there to Nevers, the canal was gorgeous, as was the tow path surfaced with red asphalt and tree lined on both sides. We made a right turn to come into the Port of Nevers, from where the tower of the church of St. Cyr can be seen. The pontoons are brand new, and the Capitanerie is modern and well equipped. It even has a little library with books in several languages. Most people, including us, leave books there in exchange for others. There used to be a lock that went down to the Loire, but it is closed now. Just before its entrance, and at the end of the port, they have built a water park with slides and four or five pools which operate in the summer.
The town of Nevers, home to The Ducs of Nevers has a strong Italian influence through marriage with the Gonzaga family. The Palace is in Renaissance Style with a beautiful square framed with gabled houses and a lovely garden. It is here that the oldest Italian style pottery factory in France is located just next to the city gate, landmark of Nevers. The church of St. Cyr is beautiful as well, especially the earlier Romanesque part of the church with an enormous fresco of Jesus. The stained glass windows, although modern are incredibly colorful, as are the dozens of gargoyles on its exterior.
We ate at a little Italian restaurant our first night, and the next day Bill and Skipper went to get a rental car for He and Jill to go back to Paris. They decided to take us with them so we could all go to Cambrai, they could see our home port, and we could pick up our car. We waited until the next day to go, and left rather early, since we wanted to take them to Auxerre, Chalon and then to Reims. We did just that, and in Reims went to visit the Basilica of St. Remy, on the day of The Saint. The church was looking gorgeous all lit up and they were about to start a very important ceremony. The Taittinger Champagne House is a block away, so we were able to make the English tour of the cellars. The guide was the same girl we had last year, a fabulous one, and Skip and Jill enjoyed it immensely.
We made it to Cambrai by 7:30 PM, found out that our friend Andrew was on Anfra, so Bill went there to talk to him, while I went with Skip and Jill to the Main Square to eat something. We were very warmly welcomed by Therese at La Chope, the little hotel where we stayed when we first went to Cambrai. After breakfast at La Chope, we went to the port, said hello to Gerard and Claudine at the Cafe de la Marine and picked up our mail. They invited us to stay with them for the night. We said good bye to Skip and Jill, and were very sad to see them drive away. Bill needed to get some parts for the central heating system, so wet went around different stores. At Gerard and Claudine's we had a lovely beef fondue and some fabulous wine from their cellar. After a very good night sleep, Bill was able to help Claudine install something for her dryer and decided we must go to Tournai, Belgium, where he could find the 15 mm. pipe he needed. The drive is only 45 minutes, and very successful. He found all he needed, had lunch in a lovely restaurant on the Main Square, bought some Belgian chocolate for our friends from The Petit Chef with whom we would be having dinner and spending the night. The whole family was there, including their son Matthieu from whom we had ordered the blinds for the wheelhouse. Dominique had prepared a most delicious paella, great dessert and good wines. We had a great time with our dear friends, spent the night at their house, and said a very emotional good bye. In the morning, on our way out, we went to see our friends Bernard and Nicole, who had just returned from their vacation in the South. It was close to noon, so they insisted we stay for lunch. Nicole prepared a lovely salad nicoise in her very beautiful newly remodeled kitchen. They had brought us a beautiful bottle of wine, thinking of us, because of its label, Les Mariniers. They are so thoughtful and special, our friends in Cambrai. We were very sad to say good bye, but also certain that we will be going back as often as we can.
A SURPRISE VISIT
On our way back to Nevers, we got a call from our friend Dale, from California, who was in Denmark on a business trip, had had a meeting canceled in Paris, and was coming to see us. We were delighted with the news, so Friday, we picked him up at the train station in Nevers. He had come from Amsterdam, and was exhausted. We stayed on the boat, had some good wine and a lovely meal and a great evening. The next day we took Dale to see the city and its sights. In the afternoon we took a ride out to the Pot Canal, the round lock nearby, the lovely town of Apremont, a truly gorgeous little village on the banks of the river, and to see the confluence of The Loire and The Allier rivers. On Sunday, after a leisurely breakfast, we drove through the countryside of Burgundy on a clear and sunny day, to take Dale to Lyon from where he would be flying that evening to Lisbon. We saw some gorgeous chateaux, farms and lovely towns, and of course, some vineyards. We really enjoyed Dale's visit and hope he will bring his wife, Gail next year.
We will be in Nevers a few more days, since Bill is trying to solve the problem with the regulator. On Thursday I will be taking the train to Paris, where I will be meeting my friend Linda, a colleague from school who is here on vacation. On the 19th, our friends Stella and Justo will be arriving from Miami, so we will be cruising with them for a few days before we return to Briare.
Mooring at Cours les Barres
Intimidating luck of Guetin
Church of St. Cyr, Nevers
Palace of the Ducs of Nevers
La porte de Creux, Nevers
Beautiful Apremont
Dale's Miller time
Skip and Jill arrive in Briare
The Port of Briare
Biesbosch's beautiful flag over Bridge Canal de Briare
Village of Mentereol sous Sancerre
Arched viaduct over Mentereol
The vineyard of Sancerre
View of Sancerre from Feudal tower
Grape pickers, Sancerre
Syl and Jill enjoying the ride
Jill at Taittinger's cellars
Cathedral, Reims
The captain at his best
Friday, September 29, 2006
FROM THE CANAL DE BRIARE TO THE CANAL LATERAL,
We decided not to go to Cambrai until after the visit from our friends Skip and Jill, so we continued making our way south on the Canal de Briare. After Chatillon Coligny, and the experience of Friday market in the rain, we continued down to Ouzoer sur Trezee, along a very beautiful stretch of the canal. At the lock of Moulin Brule, we stepped off to see the 4 old stepped locks, no longer in operation, a fascinating site. Just after this, we went through the prettiest and most flowery lock we have seen on this trip, the lock of La Picardie. We stopped the boat just before it, as it was lunch time for the lock keeper, hence the lock being closed. We walked to it to take pictures, had our lunch on the boat, and then went through it.
Our stop at Ouzoer was wonderful. It is a very small village, but so authentic and old and with so many pretty corners everywhere. The mooring was just after a beautiful metal bridge covered in hanging geraniums and in front of a park. We had beautiful weather the two days we spent there. We stayed for the Farmer's Market on Sunday, held at a farm about 1 Km from the Port. We were told they would have tents set up so people could have lunch there. This was a fabulous experience. All the people were locals out for their Sunday family lunch at the farm. They had all kinds of delicious things being prepared by the different vendors. We opted for a wild mushroom omelet and some very dark hardy bread and a bottle of apple cider. It all tasted so good! The people sitting next to us, an older couple were delighted to see some Americans there. They seemed so surprised that anyone from California would ever want to leave the state.
Monday morning we left Ouzoer on a very foggy and rainy morning, and this time we were down locking through six locks to get to Briare. As soon as we got to the port, I talked to Christophe, the captain about the possibility of wintering the boat there. He had heard from a friend that we were interested in a spot, but told us the port was full for the winter. In the afternoon, when we were in his office talking to him, we found out one of the boats might not be staying, which meant we could have its spot. He said he would let us know on Friday.
Briare is mostly famous for its PONT CANAL (Canal Bridge) of almost 700 Mts. going over the River Loire. It was built in 1890-1894, and a work of incredible engineering. The canal part of the bridge is done all in steel, and the masonery work by Mr. Eiffel is outstanding. The town is gorgeous, and the port has everything nearby, a great place to be. The town is surounded by water, the old canal is still there, the Canal de Briare, the Canal Lateral a la Loire, and of course the River Loire. We spent a lot of time walking around, especially along the river. It is so wild and beautiful on this side of the valley. Our friend Earl came for one night and got to walk the length of the Pont Canal, as well as along the banks of the river. It is at Briare that Skip and Jill joined us on the same day that Earl left. We have been with them for a week and have seen some lovely country and experienced some great things.
We rented bicycles and rode back to Ouzoer sur Trezee along the tow path. It was a gorgeous day, so we took our time. We found a cute little restaurant a had a fabulous lunch. We decided to ride back along the Loire and up to the Pont Canal before returning our bikes. There is an ice cream place by the Pont Canal, so after a day of exertion we felt we deserved a little treat, and it tasted great.
Before leaving Briare, we were given the good news that we could have a spot for the winter. Needless to say, we were very glad, and relieved, since it meant we would no longer have the pressure of having to find something quickly.
It was a treat for Skip and Jill to experience the crossing of the Pont Canal as their first barging experience. It is thrilling going over a river in your boat. We stopped just after it and had lunch on Biesbosch. We continued as far as Chatillon sur Loire where we tied the boat for a couple of hours to walk to the Ecluse de Mantelot, which connected the Old Canal Lateral a la Loire with the river. This lock is a monument, although it is still in operation. We had seen a model of it at the museum of Briare, and were really glad we got to see it.
We continued to Beaulieu, tied the boat after the town bridge, and decided to explore the town the next day.
Bill got up and found a bakery, as he does in every town, got great croissants and bread, we had breakfast, cleaned up the boat and went into town. Beaulieu, although old, is not a particularly interesting town, although it has a charming little church and a few pretty streets. It was Sunday, and we wanted to have lunch out. The restaurant we chose was having an event, so it was closed, but we found another, L'Auberge de la Tour, which despite the slow service, turned out to be very good. After a great lunch, we walked across the canal towards Bonny, over the river. It is true country with cows and sheep. The river is very wide there, but still not navigable.
To be continued. . .
Our stop at Ouzoer was wonderful. It is a very small village, but so authentic and old and with so many pretty corners everywhere. The mooring was just after a beautiful metal bridge covered in hanging geraniums and in front of a park. We had beautiful weather the two days we spent there. We stayed for the Farmer's Market on Sunday, held at a farm about 1 Km from the Port. We were told they would have tents set up so people could have lunch there. This was a fabulous experience. All the people were locals out for their Sunday family lunch at the farm. They had all kinds of delicious things being prepared by the different vendors. We opted for a wild mushroom omelet and some very dark hardy bread and a bottle of apple cider. It all tasted so good! The people sitting next to us, an older couple were delighted to see some Americans there. They seemed so surprised that anyone from California would ever want to leave the state.
Monday morning we left Ouzoer on a very foggy and rainy morning, and this time we were down locking through six locks to get to Briare. As soon as we got to the port, I talked to Christophe, the captain about the possibility of wintering the boat there. He had heard from a friend that we were interested in a spot, but told us the port was full for the winter. In the afternoon, when we were in his office talking to him, we found out one of the boats might not be staying, which meant we could have its spot. He said he would let us know on Friday.
Briare is mostly famous for its PONT CANAL (Canal Bridge) of almost 700 Mts. going over the River Loire. It was built in 1890-1894, and a work of incredible engineering. The canal part of the bridge is done all in steel, and the masonery work by Mr. Eiffel is outstanding. The town is gorgeous, and the port has everything nearby, a great place to be. The town is surounded by water, the old canal is still there, the Canal de Briare, the Canal Lateral a la Loire, and of course the River Loire. We spent a lot of time walking around, especially along the river. It is so wild and beautiful on this side of the valley. Our friend Earl came for one night and got to walk the length of the Pont Canal, as well as along the banks of the river. It is at Briare that Skip and Jill joined us on the same day that Earl left. We have been with them for a week and have seen some lovely country and experienced some great things.
We rented bicycles and rode back to Ouzoer sur Trezee along the tow path. It was a gorgeous day, so we took our time. We found a cute little restaurant a had a fabulous lunch. We decided to ride back along the Loire and up to the Pont Canal before returning our bikes. There is an ice cream place by the Pont Canal, so after a day of exertion we felt we deserved a little treat, and it tasted great.
Before leaving Briare, we were given the good news that we could have a spot for the winter. Needless to say, we were very glad, and relieved, since it meant we would no longer have the pressure of having to find something quickly.
It was a treat for Skip and Jill to experience the crossing of the Pont Canal as their first barging experience. It is thrilling going over a river in your boat. We stopped just after it and had lunch on Biesbosch. We continued as far as Chatillon sur Loire where we tied the boat for a couple of hours to walk to the Ecluse de Mantelot, which connected the Old Canal Lateral a la Loire with the river. This lock is a monument, although it is still in operation. We had seen a model of it at the museum of Briare, and were really glad we got to see it.
We continued to Beaulieu, tied the boat after the town bridge, and decided to explore the town the next day.
Bill got up and found a bakery, as he does in every town, got great croissants and bread, we had breakfast, cleaned up the boat and went into town. Beaulieu, although old, is not a particularly interesting town, although it has a charming little church and a few pretty streets. It was Sunday, and we wanted to have lunch out. The restaurant we chose was having an event, so it was closed, but we found another, L'Auberge de la Tour, which despite the slow service, turned out to be very good. After a great lunch, we walked across the canal towards Bonny, over the river. It is true country with cows and sheep. The river is very wide there, but still not navigable.
To be continued. . .
Sunday, September 17, 2006
FROM THE CANAL DU LOING TO THE CANAL DE BRIARE
We stayed at Moret sur Loing for six nights. The Port de Plaisance was beautiful and very convenient for us to do a bit of work on the boat before our friend Debbie and Richard arrived. On Saturday, Sept. 2, the last Sound and Light show of the season on Alfred Sisley's life was taking place. We bought tickets and hope it would not be canceled because of rain. At this point, we were still having a lot of light sprinkles every day, and ten minutes before the show, it started to rain, but luckily, it did not last but a few minutes. The show started on the banks of the River Loing with the town wall, ancient mills, bridge and church as background, just as Sisley had painted so many times when he lived there. I had mentioned that he had been born in Moret. He was born in England, but lived and died in Moret. He is our son Ian's favorite impressionist painter.
While moored at the port, we met Matty, a Dutch lady who lives on her small boat with Dusty, her beautiful dog, and whose boyfriend was coming with supplies and materials to do some work on her boat. It was great for Bill, because, he and George, Matty's friend were able to do some wood work together for a couple of days.
Richard and Debbie arrived on Tuesday, Sept 5, at 11:30 AM. They took the train from Paris, a ride of about one hour. They brought the sun with them, and we have had id now for 10 days. It was so exciting to have Debbie and Richard with us! We celebrated their arrival with a few cold beers and a light lunch of cheeses and munchies, many of which they brought from Paris. We relaxed, did a lot of catching up and went into town to explore. In the afternoon, we decided to walk to St. Mammes, the town we had briefly stopped at on our way to Moret. It is on The Seine, so we took a leisurley walk to it, under a hot sun. We wanted to have dinner at a restaurant that had been recommended by friends, but unfortunately it was closed. Debbie and I went into an Art gallery while the guys checked out the chandlery across the river. We got back to the boat, and Debbie and I prepared a lovely meal. It is so much fun to cook on Biesbosch, but it is even better to share with your friends.
The Chateau de Fointainebleau is a few minutes away by train, so the next day we decided to go see it. We packed a picnic lunch and took the train to Avon Station, where Richard and Debbie made their arrangements for their train to Paris and to Barcelona. From the station, we walked through the town and across some of the gardens of the Chateau. We sat along one of the long reflecting pools, among the trees and had our picnic lunch. We then continued to walk to the Chateau, which is quite large, and one that has an incredible history. It has been used by kings and heads of state from the XIII C. until Napoleon III. We took a tour of The Main Apartments which had been the private quarters of Francis I, Louis Philippe, Louis XVI and Marie Antoinette as well as Napoleon I. The decor was elegant to excess. There were some beautiful frescoes and Gobelin tapestries in many of the rooms. The tour must have taken us over an hour. We walked to the train station, this time the long way so by the time we got back to the boat, we were exausted and thirsty. We sat on the boat and quenched our thirst, a a few munchies and prepared dinner together. Our wheelhouse-diningroom-guest bedroom facility works rather well, and Debbie and Richard became experts at assembling and disassembling it in no time.
On Thursday, we cast off after lunch, the first canal experience for our friends. The first lock was right at our mooring, an automatic one, but the lock keeper wanted to see the boat papers--all in order -- and off we went. The rest of the locks were manual, so Richard would get off and help the lock keepers open the gates. Often boaters give them something, so we thought a couple of bottles of cold beer would be a good idea. They were very grateful. We navigated through some lovely countryside and arrived in Nome's at 5:30 PM. We moored just after the lock before the bridge. There was no electricity or water, but our baatteries were charged and our water tanks full. We tied the boat and walked into town to see the XII C castle and bridge in the middle of town on the river. We found a market, bought some beer for the lock keepers and went back to the boat. After a good night sleep, we had breakfast and cast off at around 11:00 AM. The countryside along this stretch of the canal was magnificent. Lush vegetation, narrow passages, lovely bridges and some beautiful locks full of flowers.
Next morning, cool, but sunny, we set off To Montargis for Saturday market. It was a short distance, so we left at 10:45 AM. we had only a few locks to pass, but we had to wait at one for another boat behind us, who turned to be Matty's Lucky Duck. Then, about 40 minutes into our navigation, the water temperature alarm went off, signaling that the engine could be overheating. We pulled up along the side, tied the boat to a couple of trees, Bill checked the problem which turned out to be debris in the water intake. He quickly cleaned it up, and off we went. We were so afraid we might not make the market which would end at 12:30 or 1:00 PM. As we approached the town, we had to go through 2 more locks, a small one and the last one over 5 Mts. high. The first one was not working, so Deb and I got off the boat and walked to the next one to see if we could talk to the lock keeper. She was letting a boat in, and told us she would activate ours, which she did. The 200 Mts. between the first lock and the second, were beautiful. Here we were going right through this gorgeous little town, a French Venice with beautiful architecture and lovely little bridges. At the exit of the lock was The Port de Plaisance, where we moored the boat, locked it up and walked towards the center of town, a couple of blocks where the market was set up. It was great. Here we were going right through this gorgeous little town, a French Venice with beautiful architecture and lovely little bridges. At the exit of the lock was The Port de Plaisance, where we moored the boat, locked it up and walked towards the center of town, a couple of blocks where the market was set up. IT WAS STILL THERE! It was great that Richard and Debbie were able to experience it. There were all kinds of stands, with fresh fruits and vegetables, cheeses and creams, butchers, fishmongers, the works. We decided to buy some roasted chickens with the potatoes cooked in their drippings, a couple of quail and even some roast rabbit for Richard. We sat at a nearby cafe and had a beer while our lunch was being cooked on the pit. We brought the feast to the boat and set up a picnic lunch at the picnic table in front of it. The port was beautiful, with a wooden quay, modern lighting and lovely landscaping. It was hot, but we had a great lunch. Riverdance, a boat owned by Pamela and Bruce from British Columbia was there. We had met them in Moret. After lunch, they came by and so did Barry and Karen, Americans whom we had met in Roanne early in the spring. Their boat Eleanor, had passed by in Moret. After a bit of a nap, we went into town to explore and found out they were having a type of sidewalk sale, so there were lots of people around. The town has some gorgeous areas, especially the Quartier des Pecheurs, mostly half-timbered houses, set on the canals, with flowers everywhere. We walked up to The Castle from where you can see the town above, down again, across to a lovely park by the canal. That evening we had a light meal on board, accompanied by a great bottle of champagne, and I made a reservation at L'Orangerie du Lac for Sunday lunch. It had been highly recommended by friends, so we thought it would be a lovely last meal with Richard and Debbie. After a brisk walk to the next lock along the tow path (9 Kms) , Debbie and I felt tired, but so did Bill and Richard. They had been working on the boat, while we were away, Richard washing the boat and Bill on the new cooling system. We showered and walked to the restaurant, which was an experience in itself. A fabulous dinner accompanied by a great Loire wine, a local one, very refreshing. We all had different dishes, and loved them all. After such a meal, as we walked to the boat, a very drunk gentleman approached the boat and insisting on coming in to see it. Richard, very politely tried to disuade him, but he could not understand "No". I called the police, a within minutes there were four officers who came, handcuffed him and took him away. AFter the meal and this little "episode" we all took a nap on the deck of the boat under our umbrella. In the evening, another "light" meal and off to bed.
Monday, after breakfast, We had our last few ours with Richard and Debbie. We flew our American flag to commemorate September 11. Before noon, a taxi came to take our friends to the station where they would be going to Paris and from there to Barcelona, changing trains at Montpellier. It was truly sad to say good bye to Debbie and Richard. They were the perfect guests, who enjoyed everything, and with whom we have been able to share our dream from the beginning. We are blessed with such good friends.
After their departure, I felt such vacuum inside, I knew I had to be busy, so I did four loads of laundry. It was hot outside, so I hung it all to dry. We found a Piaggio shop in town, so we took our motor scooter to be looked at. We had not run it in a year, and could not start it. We left it there, and two hours later got back to find it running perfectly. The carburetor was replaced, so now we have our little scooter working. It is a great thing to have while we do not have the car with us. We might be going to Cambrai this weekend to pick it up.
Yesterday, Sept 12, we left Montargis at 11:30, destination Chatillon Coligny. At the second lock we had to wait for an hour--lunch time for the lock keepers -- so we tied up, had our lunch, and promptly at 1:00 PM the lock was opened for us. There we a series of locks, the last four, that were over 4 Mts. high. At all but one, there were keepers, but we managed that one on our own. There was a stretch of over 12 Kms between locks, so I did my step dancing on the bow. It is the greatest thing listening to my music and exercising to it. The people that go by, seem to love it. They all wave and give us thumbs up.
We arrived at this gorgeous little town, whose 300 year old canal is in great shape, with a lovely Port de Plaisance where Eleanor was tied up. Soon after Barry and Karen arrived from a 112 KM bike ride. They are serious bikers. They had us over for "a drink" but we wound up having a few more, I had some pork chops and a few other things, so I brought dinner over, and we had a lovely evening with them. This morning, Bill and I went to see the town and decided to go to The Castle and the museum in the afternoon. We are thinking about leaving Biesbosch here for a few days while we go to get our car in Cambrai. We shall see.
While moored at the port, we met Matty, a Dutch lady who lives on her small boat with Dusty, her beautiful dog, and whose boyfriend was coming with supplies and materials to do some work on her boat. It was great for Bill, because, he and George, Matty's friend were able to do some wood work together for a couple of days.
Richard and Debbie arrived on Tuesday, Sept 5, at 11:30 AM. They took the train from Paris, a ride of about one hour. They brought the sun with them, and we have had id now for 10 days. It was so exciting to have Debbie and Richard with us! We celebrated their arrival with a few cold beers and a light lunch of cheeses and munchies, many of which they brought from Paris. We relaxed, did a lot of catching up and went into town to explore. In the afternoon, we decided to walk to St. Mammes, the town we had briefly stopped at on our way to Moret. It is on The Seine, so we took a leisurley walk to it, under a hot sun. We wanted to have dinner at a restaurant that had been recommended by friends, but unfortunately it was closed. Debbie and I went into an Art gallery while the guys checked out the chandlery across the river. We got back to the boat, and Debbie and I prepared a lovely meal. It is so much fun to cook on Biesbosch, but it is even better to share with your friends.
The Chateau de Fointainebleau is a few minutes away by train, so the next day we decided to go see it. We packed a picnic lunch and took the train to Avon Station, where Richard and Debbie made their arrangements for their train to Paris and to Barcelona. From the station, we walked through the town and across some of the gardens of the Chateau. We sat along one of the long reflecting pools, among the trees and had our picnic lunch. We then continued to walk to the Chateau, which is quite large, and one that has an incredible history. It has been used by kings and heads of state from the XIII C. until Napoleon III. We took a tour of The Main Apartments which had been the private quarters of Francis I, Louis Philippe, Louis XVI and Marie Antoinette as well as Napoleon I. The decor was elegant to excess. There were some beautiful frescoes and Gobelin tapestries in many of the rooms. The tour must have taken us over an hour. We walked to the train station, this time the long way so by the time we got back to the boat, we were exausted and thirsty. We sat on the boat and quenched our thirst, a a few munchies and prepared dinner together. Our wheelhouse-diningroom-guest bedroom facility works rather well, and Debbie and Richard became experts at assembling and disassembling it in no time.
On Thursday, we cast off after lunch, the first canal experience for our friends. The first lock was right at our mooring, an automatic one, but the lock keeper wanted to see the boat papers--all in order -- and off we went. The rest of the locks were manual, so Richard would get off and help the lock keepers open the gates. Often boaters give them something, so we thought a couple of bottles of cold beer would be a good idea. They were very grateful. We navigated through some lovely countryside and arrived in Nome's at 5:30 PM. We moored just after the lock before the bridge. There was no electricity or water, but our baatteries were charged and our water tanks full. We tied the boat and walked into town to see the XII C castle and bridge in the middle of town on the river. We found a market, bought some beer for the lock keepers and went back to the boat. After a good night sleep, we had breakfast and cast off at around 11:00 AM. The countryside along this stretch of the canal was magnificent. Lush vegetation, narrow passages, lovely bridges and some beautiful locks full of flowers.
Next morning, cool, but sunny, we set off To Montargis for Saturday market. It was a short distance, so we left at 10:45 AM. we had only a few locks to pass, but we had to wait at one for another boat behind us, who turned to be Matty's Lucky Duck. Then, about 40 minutes into our navigation, the water temperature alarm went off, signaling that the engine could be overheating. We pulled up along the side, tied the boat to a couple of trees, Bill checked the problem which turned out to be debris in the water intake. He quickly cleaned it up, and off we went. We were so afraid we might not make the market which would end at 12:30 or 1:00 PM. As we approached the town, we had to go through 2 more locks, a small one and the last one over 5 Mts. high. The first one was not working, so Deb and I got off the boat and walked to the next one to see if we could talk to the lock keeper. She was letting a boat in, and told us she would activate ours, which she did. The 200 Mts. between the first lock and the second, were beautiful. Here we were going right through this gorgeous little town, a French Venice with beautiful architecture and lovely little bridges. At the exit of the lock was The Port de Plaisance, where we moored the boat, locked it up and walked towards the center of town, a couple of blocks where the market was set up. It was great. Here we were going right through this gorgeous little town, a French Venice with beautiful architecture and lovely little bridges. At the exit of the lock was The Port de Plaisance, where we moored the boat, locked it up and walked towards the center of town, a couple of blocks where the market was set up. IT WAS STILL THERE! It was great that Richard and Debbie were able to experience it. There were all kinds of stands, with fresh fruits and vegetables, cheeses and creams, butchers, fishmongers, the works. We decided to buy some roasted chickens with the potatoes cooked in their drippings, a couple of quail and even some roast rabbit for Richard. We sat at a nearby cafe and had a beer while our lunch was being cooked on the pit. We brought the feast to the boat and set up a picnic lunch at the picnic table in front of it. The port was beautiful, with a wooden quay, modern lighting and lovely landscaping. It was hot, but we had a great lunch. Riverdance, a boat owned by Pamela and Bruce from British Columbia was there. We had met them in Moret. After lunch, they came by and so did Barry and Karen, Americans whom we had met in Roanne early in the spring. Their boat Eleanor, had passed by in Moret. After a bit of a nap, we went into town to explore and found out they were having a type of sidewalk sale, so there were lots of people around. The town has some gorgeous areas, especially the Quartier des Pecheurs, mostly half-timbered houses, set on the canals, with flowers everywhere. We walked up to The Castle from where you can see the town above, down again, across to a lovely park by the canal. That evening we had a light meal on board, accompanied by a great bottle of champagne, and I made a reservation at L'Orangerie du Lac for Sunday lunch. It had been highly recommended by friends, so we thought it would be a lovely last meal with Richard and Debbie. After a brisk walk to the next lock along the tow path (9 Kms) , Debbie and I felt tired, but so did Bill and Richard. They had been working on the boat, while we were away, Richard washing the boat and Bill on the new cooling system. We showered and walked to the restaurant, which was an experience in itself. A fabulous dinner accompanied by a great Loire wine, a local one, very refreshing. We all had different dishes, and loved them all. After such a meal, as we walked to the boat, a very drunk gentleman approached the boat and insisting on coming in to see it. Richard, very politely tried to disuade him, but he could not understand "No". I called the police, a within minutes there were four officers who came, handcuffed him and took him away. AFter the meal and this little "episode" we all took a nap on the deck of the boat under our umbrella. In the evening, another "light" meal and off to bed.
Monday, after breakfast, We had our last few ours with Richard and Debbie. We flew our American flag to commemorate September 11. Before noon, a taxi came to take our friends to the station where they would be going to Paris and from there to Barcelona, changing trains at Montpellier. It was truly sad to say good bye to Debbie and Richard. They were the perfect guests, who enjoyed everything, and with whom we have been able to share our dream from the beginning. We are blessed with such good friends.
After their departure, I felt such vacuum inside, I knew I had to be busy, so I did four loads of laundry. It was hot outside, so I hung it all to dry. We found a Piaggio shop in town, so we took our motor scooter to be looked at. We had not run it in a year, and could not start it. We left it there, and two hours later got back to find it running perfectly. The carburetor was replaced, so now we have our little scooter working. It is a great thing to have while we do not have the car with us. We might be going to Cambrai this weekend to pick it up.
Yesterday, Sept 12, we left Montargis at 11:30, destination Chatillon Coligny. At the second lock we had to wait for an hour--lunch time for the lock keepers -- so we tied up, had our lunch, and promptly at 1:00 PM the lock was opened for us. There we a series of locks, the last four, that were over 4 Mts. high. At all but one, there were keepers, but we managed that one on our own. There was a stretch of over 12 Kms between locks, so I did my step dancing on the bow. It is the greatest thing listening to my music and exercising to it. The people that go by, seem to love it. They all wave and give us thumbs up.
We arrived at this gorgeous little town, whose 300 year old canal is in great shape, with a lovely Port de Plaisance where Eleanor was tied up. Soon after Barry and Karen arrived from a 112 KM bike ride. They are serious bikers. They had us over for "a drink" but we wound up having a few more, I had some pork chops and a few other things, so I brought dinner over, and we had a lovely evening with them. This morning, Bill and I went to see the town and decided to go to The Castle and the museum in the afternoon. We are thinking about leaving Biesbosch here for a few days while we go to get our car in Cambrai. We shall see.
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