TO THE END OF THE CANAL LATERAL A LA GARONNE PART II (IAN'S VISIT)

On September 2 Ian arrived in Paris, where he stayed for a couple of days with his cousin, Sylvia and husband Laurent. The day of Ian's arrival it was Sylvia's first day at The Salon de la Mode where she was exhibiting and promoting her new winter collection. This was a very interesting thing for Ian to see, and he was delighted to be able to help his cousin with the set up of her displays, etc. Although Sylvia was very busy, they were able to spend some time together, so for Ian it was a great experience. On the 6 of September we picked Ian up at the train station in Bordeaux. It was so exciting to see him there waiting for us. I could not believe he was going to be with us again for a few days. We parked the car by the river and the Hotel de Ville, so he could see the new River walk they have built in the city. They have been building it for a few years, and they only have about a kilometer to finish. It is absolutely gorgeous. Across from the Hotel de Ville they built a Mirroir d' eau or Water Mirror, a fountain that spews jets of water steam and trickles of water to form a large square flat water mirror on its black slate stones. People can take their shoes off and play in it, so you see children and adults alike enjoying this unusual fountain. We found a nice restaurant in front of the river, so we sat down for a while and had a very nice lunch. Before we left town, we went to see the submarine pens from WW II, which are intact. Ian was eager to see the boat, so we got back in the car and drove to Meilhan sur Garonne where Biesbosch was.

Ian wanted to relax and not do a lot of navigating, at least not very long days, so we spent two days in Meilhan, took him to see the towns around it, had some lovely meals on board, and on the 8 at around 11:00, we left Meilhan to go to Castets en Dorthe, the end of The Canal Lateral a la Garonne, about 1/1/2 hours away. It was a gorgeous, sunny morning and this last part of the canal, like the rest is green and lush. At the last lock we had to wait for a while. There was a crew of three men working on the gates. After going through the lock, we moored along the canal and had lunch on deck. We arrived at Castets around 1: 30 PM and were able to tie up along the long pontoon away from the port; a great spot. Later on, a large Peniche called Bosco, tied behind us. As it turned out, they had a Peniche Driving School, and the students were all girls. According to Ian, from the looks of them--rather rough around the edges--they must have been young delinquents being taught a skill. In he late afternoon they all jumped into the water to play and sun themselves on surfboards. They all had their eyes set on Ian, without a doubt. We walked to the lock that takes you to the Garonne, a rather intimidating lock whose lock house has three floors, unlike the rest. The river has flooded many times and the marks of the various flood levels are set in the house walls. We then walked up the hill to the Chateau de Castets and the small village of about 400 people. In the evening we set up the barbecue and had a great cookout.

The next day, Ian's birthday, we had a lazy morning, a nice lunch on board and after 2:30 PM navigated Back to Meilhan. Ian wanted to have a raclette for dinner, so after tying the boat up, we took the car to the supermarket and bought the cheeses, meats, and all ingredients necessary. As it turned out, it was a chili and rainy night, the perfect weather for a raclette. For Ian it was a perfect day, exactly what he wanted. To go to Vileton We stayed at Meilhan until the morning of the 12, when we left around 10: 00 AM. Although it was foggy in the first hour or so of navigation, the weather turned into sunny and balmy. For lunch, we tied up along the canal and had a soup and sandwich which Ian wanted and continued on to Villeton. There are a few houses behind the port, but in front of the pontoon, there is a Pizzeria and a small local folklore museum. It is a quiet mooring, so we decided to stay for a few days. From there we took trips by car to Mas d'Agenais so Ian could see The Rembrandt at The Collegiale, to Agen to eat at the train station, to Damazan and other villages in the area. We had left our car in Meilhan so Bill took the bicycle along he canal to pick up the car and bring it to Villeton. On the 14 in the morning, we took Ian back to Bordeaux from where he returned to Paris and the 16 he flew back to LA. This time, Sylvia was not as busy, so he was able to spend time with his cousin. She has always been very special to Ian and he has always enjoyed her company as well as Laurent's, Sylvia's husband.

After such a wonderful time with him, it was very hard to say goodbye to our boy. And for a few days, I kept setting the table for 3, forgetting he was not around. He always is, though in our hearts.





A beautiful day for navigation



Brasserie de la Gare, Agen



A pigeon house in Gascony



Our mooring at Castets



Flood levels markings



Lock leading to Garonne River



Chateau de Castets



Cookout at Castets



View of canal, Garonne and bridge from top of Mas d'Agenais



Ian admiring a Rembrandt



The Mirroir d' eau, Bordeaux



The Garonne



The wild and beautiful Garonne



Our handsome son



A typical Gascony landscape

TO THE END OF THE CANAL LATERAL A LA GARONNE PART I

After Bob and Doris left, we spent a couple more weeks in Malause doing some work on Biesbosch, a new front hatch that Mark, our friend fabricated for us, a bit of painting, and of course enjoying the company of Mark and Celia, Kit and Steve and Laurence and Andre whom I met when I came back from Spain. On August 17 we celebrated Celia's birthday with a big lunch in the picnic area and a game of boules in the late afternoon. We stayed in Malause until the 30 of August, but did a lot of traveling by car, and explored the Lot et Garonne and The Gers, both very beautiful departments with gorgeous towns, great nearby hill food and history.

The first night we tied all by ourselves at a bend in the canal where we could see on the nearby hill a medieval town with a triangular church tower all pink from the sunset light. As soon as we tied up we were visited by a family of six beautiful swans who swam around our boat for a long time, even after they had been fed a whole baguette. Since it was early still, we left the boat and walked down a little road to see where it would lead. After a few bends we came into a tiny village called St. Pierre de Malaure. The houses were small and low and all around were sunflower fields and plum trees full of purple fruit ready to be picked. The next morning we continued on to Agen, a real city that has a real port by the train station, whose brasserie is famed for its good cuisine. We got there, tied up in front of a big peniche and walked across the pedestrian bridge over to the station. Lunch was fabulous and the ambiance great. After lunch we arrived in the village of Serignac where we tied up to the pontoon along with three other boats. The village of Serignac has a very distinct church tower that swirls up like an ice cream cone. It is quite beautiful. The town is a small bastide with half timber houses and narrow streets; very lovely. In the afternoon we stooped at the local boules court to watch a few people playing, and Bill was invited to join in. He was playing with some very accomplished players and he and his partner won the game. It was such a fantastic thing for Bill to do! The next day we walked from the canal to the River Garonne, a few km away among the plum trees, apple orchards and kiwi plants. The aromas of the warm ripening fruit were unbelievable. The river is very wild and its banks in that area, not at all populated, so with its lush vegetation and clear water, you felt as if you were in the jungle. We walked quite a distance on its graveled banks from where we could see hundreds of fish feeding close to the banks, jumping and splashing about. It was quite a sight!

Our next stop was in the town of Buzet, whose vineyards produce some very good wines. We tied up after the port in front of a restaurant where we thought we might have electricity, but they had disconnected it. However, as it is, we have enough battery power to run the 2 refrigerators, lights, and all other electrical appliances, except oven for about 32 hours. We left the boat, walked to see the town uphill to La Cave de Buzet, a cellar owned by the vintners of the region where they have wine tasting. After tasting a few good wines, we bought a few bottles and walked back to our boat with them. It was a beautiful evening, so we went on deck for our aperitif, had a very nice dinner and watched a great French film.

From Buzet we did a three hour run, an easy run past the port at Damazan, where we could not tie up because their pontoons are too small and mainly for plastic boats. This stretch of the canal is particularly beautiful with three and sometimes four rows of plain trees along its banks. We decided to stop for lunch at a restaurant called Le Bar du Canal because it had a pontoon right in front of its terrace for boats to stop and tie to. The lunch turned out to be a lovely home cooked meal and a fantastic dessert. We were going to continue on, but since the pontoon had all the amenities, we decided to stay and take a long bike ride along the Voie Verte, a bike path that goes from Toulouse to Bordeaux. It was a gorgeous afternoon, so off we went on a 24 Km run. On our way back, we stopped at the lovely medieval town of Mas d'Agenais which has a great view over both the canal and the River Garonne and its suspension bridge. The main square has a covered market from the XIII C. and the Collegiale de St. Vincent, one of the most beautiful of Rembrandt's small paintings of The Cruxifition, one of a series of seven. It was willed to the town by a rich merchant who had lived there.

The next day, we did a 6 hour run with an hour lunch break. There had been a rain storm in the middle of the night cooling things off a bit. We arrived at the town of Meilhan and saw our friends Robin and Millie from Taboe, whom we had not seen since May of this year. They signaled to us to tie up to their boat and told s that the boat behind them would be leaving the next day and we could then have that spot. The port is very well equipped, and it is one of the few with WIFI, which is a real plus. The people who run it is an English couple who used to run a small port in The Midi. They live in their narrow boat with their dog, and have a small concession at the port. Our friends Jane and Hugh from Sea Wolf were also there, and it was great seeing them again, as well. The next day, Bill took the bicycle up to the town of La Reole, where he got a train to pick up the car in Malause and bring it back. Ian was to arrive in Bordeaux in a few days, and we were to meet him there at the train station. While in Meilhan, we did some more traveling in the area by car. We spent a day visiting the vineyards in Bordeaux and saw a few gorgeous Chateaux, but none of the well known ones, such as Chateau Lafite Rothschild and Chateau Mouton were closed for tasting. The region is very beautiful and one can see chateau after chateau for miles on end. At the town of Lamarque, on the West side of the Gironde, we took a ferry to Blaye. It is quite an experience crossing the tidal muddy and dangerous estuary. Blaye has a Vauban citadelle, beautifully preserved with an unbelievable view of the hills and valley below.

Bill broke a tooth, had to go to Carcassonne to see the dentist, so we stayed with our friends Michel and Claudine, the greatest hosts anyone can have. It was the week of Spanish Days in Carcassonne, a yearly Spanish festival of music, spectacles and food. The weather was glorious, as was the whole ambiance in town. On the way back to the boat, we visited the Medieval town of Mirepoix, high on the hills of the Minervois and known for its beautifully preserved half timbered houses with carved wooden beams. It is a treasure of a town.





Celia's birthday in Malause



A beautiful mooring spot on the canal



The Town Hall and Square in Lamarque



A Beautiful Chateau, Bordeaux



Going onto ferry across La Gironde



Premieres cotes de Blaye



With Claudine after market in Carcassonne



Beautiful Mirepoix



Ancient carved beam, Mirepiox



Biesbosch, Agen Port



Going over the Garonne on the Pont Canal of Agen

OUR VISIT WITH BOB AND DORIS GIAMBRA

A few days after I arrived from Spain, our friends Bob and Doris from California took a train from Paris to Bordeaux where they were met by us. They had taken an overnight train from Rome, the tail end of their Italian trip after having been in Venice, Cinque Terre and Tuscany as a Silver Wedding Anniversary trip. They had telephoned to say their train would be delayed by a couple of hours, so Bill and I decided to go to Ikea in the outskirts of Bordeaux to do some shopping. Their train arrived at the Gare St. Jean around 2:30 PM and as passengers were getting off the TGV, I spotted Bob and Doris, looking tired, but very happy and relieved to see that we were there. We offered to take them around Bordeaux for some sight seeing, but they wanted to get back to Biesbosch, shower and get some rest. Our boat was in Malause, about two hours away, so during our travel time they told us about their wonderful trip to Italy and their many interesting experiences. We were delighted to have them with us and wanted them to have a good experience on the boat.

Once we were on Biesbosch, Bob and Doris decided to leave their large suitcase in the trunk of our car and only take the necessary items for the next few days. That evening they met our friends Mark and Celia, and we sat at the picnic tables and shared a lovely evening of good wine and food. While we were in Malause, Bob and Doris did some walking along the canal which is shady and lined with plain trees for as long as the eye can see. The sunflower fields were a gorgeous contrast to the green pastures and cornfields around. On August 6, the day of their anniversary, I prepared a paella for dinner, which turned out delicious. We ate it on Biesbosch on a rather hot evening. We set a nice tables, candles and all, and Doris put on a lovely sun dress for the occasion. We enjoyed a most fabulous evening with our dear friends.

During the time we were together we decided to share Rick Stein's French Odyssey series with Bob and Doris, since it is all filmed in this canal, many of the places that they would recognize and enjoy. We would watch one or two episodes every night, lying comfortably on our bed, salivating over the recipes and looking forward to the next day's episode.

From Malause we went to Castelsarrassin. It was a beautiful day for navigation and a totally new experience for our friends. They seemed to enjoy the locks, and they both took turns at the helm after a while. In Castelsarrasin we moored just under a pedestrian bridge in front of the park with the War Monument, a lovely quiet and cool spot. Bill and Bob took the bicycles to the supermarket to buy sausages and things for an evening barbeque. While they were gone, Doris and I lay on the grass in front of the boat, did some reading and even took a short nap. In the evening, where we were setting up the barbeque, we noticed a young couple who were fishing very close to our boat and who seemed to be enjoying their time together so much. As the sun set, they started to catch one fish after the other, all very large. The last one was 22 lb.. The fish were carp which they do not eat. They weighed them, took pictures of them and then, they were placed back in the water with such care. It was great to watch them do it. I took some pictures with my camera, cut them a disk, and the next day they brought us a flat of the most luscious tomatoes from the young man's father's garden. We made a great tomato sauce for a pasta the next day.

As we were getting ready to leave the port to go to Moissac, Bill emerged from the engine room with bad news. There was water in the engine, he thought it was grave, so we decided to leave him alone to sort out the problem. It was market day in Moissac, so we called a taxi who took us there and told us to call him when we were ready to leave. The market in Moissac is fabulous. They have clothes, fabric, shoes, and of course, the most wonderful produce, meats and cheeses all produced locally. We had a great time there and Doris was able to buy a few gifts for her friends back home. We kept in contact with Bill by phone, and were told he had sorted out the problem. It was not as grave as he thought and we could leave anytime. Since it was lunch time, we sat in a small restaurant by the Monastery and had a light lunch, called the taxi and in 20 minutes were back on biesbosch ready to go. The trip to Moissac was beautiful, the weather was cooler than the prior days, and a fabulous day of navigation was had by all. After the Pont Canal we wanted to go down the lock to the River Tarn, tie up at the wall by the river with 3 big peniches we had seen from the distance. As I called to ask the lock keeper to ready the lock, we were told they were closed and would have to wait until the next day at 10:00 am. The port in Moissac was full, but we were told we could tie up along the key at the bend entering the lock. It was no easy task, without bollards to tie to. Fortunately, there was a sailboat who lent us some stakes and soon enough we were tied up and secure. The port in Moissac is parallel to the River Tarn, and along the river banks, the trees are plentiful, there is a walkway and downstream, a beautiful old mill which has been turned into a hotel. We took a walk along the banks and Doris got her feet went in the river water. She was looking for a place where she could swim, but there was no easy way to get in safely. She had broken a couple of Ribs on her trip to Italy and was still in pain.

The next day we were at the lock promptly at 10:00, so we turned upstream to go as far as a Chateau on the hill and another mill about an hour ahead. The river navigation is to me the best. There is such openness and feeling of freedom and our Biesbosch loves the rivers so much. Ahead of us we encountered The St. Louis a beautiful hotel barge which takes people from Bordeaux to The Canal du Midi and which we have encountered numerous times while in this area this year. We turned at the mill and navigated downstream as far as the Base de Loisirs, a very wide part of the river with a small port and where the River Tarn meets the River Garonne. When we returned, we tied our boat to one of the big peniches on the river, got off and went for a walk. Along the banks we encountered a group of men who were playing boules, so we sat on the bench in front to watch them play. Another great thing to experience. The men were curious to know where we were from, we talked for a while and back to the boat. We had an appointment to go up the lock at 3:30 PM. This time the lock keeper was alone, so doing a double lock for several boats all afternoon was a hard task. All the time he was pleasant and managed to smile at everyone. We had a bottle of cider, which we gave him with many thanks from our hearts. He was a real trooper.

Since our car was in Malause we went back there arriving late afternoon, so Bob and Doris could pack and leave everything ready for their departure. They wanted to invite us to dinner, but we decided it would be easier to eat on the boat. I made a fresh tomato sauce with the tomatoes we had gotten from the young man, lovely onions and fresh basil from my own herb garden. It turned out delicious, of course accompanied by some good wine and our dear friends. It could not get much better. The next morning we all got up early, drove to Agen for their train was to leave at 10:00 AM. We had time to have a coffee and croissant at the station before their departure. Needless to say, saying goodbye to them was terribly sad. We had such a wonderful time and shared so many wonderful moments together that we hated to see them go. Their vacation was not over yet. They had three days in Paris which they enjoyed immensely. The best thing for us was to hear them tell us that the highlight of their vacation was their stay on Biesbosch. It was everything they wanted; a time of total rest and relaxation, and we were happy to have been able to offer it to them. We look forward to their next visit.




A barbecue in Castelsarrassin



A 14 lb. carp. Castelsarrassin



Bob at the Helm



Captain Doris



"Apero" time by the lock in Moissac



Our guys had a lot to talk about



The River Tarn upstream from Moissac



Doris getting her feet wet in The Tarn



Chateau on The Tarn



A great couple

SANTIAGO - FISTERRA - SANTIAGO

On July 24, the day before The Saint's Day, we decided to drive to Fisterra--End of the Earth. It was a gray and rainy morning when we left, but as we reached the "confines of the earth" the sun was shining. It was a beautiful drive of two hours along the Rias Bajas with beautiful beaches and lovely fishing villages. At lunch time we stopped at the town of Fisterra, inquired about a good restaurant and were told by a fisherman that all of them had good a fresh seafood. He was carrying a bucket full of shells that he sells to some of the restaurants in town. We did not have to go too far, having found a restaurant in front of the beach with a balcony where were given a table. We ordered a combination of shell and other fish, a deliciously cool Albarino and salad. The meal was an experience in itself. By this time the rain had stopped and the sky was beginning to show its blue colors. We drove out to the tip of Fisterra to take some photos, got out of the car, and it started to rain.

Once back n Santiago, Justo stayed in the hotel to rest his tired back and Libia Stella and I walked over to a big supermarket to buy cold cuts, cheeses, wine and other goodies for the evening. The big fireworks display and piece de resistance was to take place tonight at 11:30. The facade of the Cathedral is made out to look like it has been set on fire, all of this done to music, water technics and fireworks. They were expecting thousands of people, so we wanted to be ready to go around 9:30. On the way to the supermarket we passed a few boutiques, so as women do, we stopped and did a bit of shopping. At the supermarket, not only did we find all our food items, but also some folding stools to be able to watch our show in comfort. Once back at the hotel, we had our aperitif, rested and set out to look for a good place to watch the show. It was raining pretty hard, and although we had umbrellas, we wanted some plastic ponchos that almost everyone was wearing. We bought them at one of the little shops, and felt pretty well protected from the rain. We were ready! As we approached the square, we were surprised to see how few people were there. We took the best places, just in front of the barriers in the center without any obstruction. Soon after the crowds piled in, and since we had about two hours before the show, we took out our picnic and wine all under our plastic ponchos. It was so unbelievably fun to enjoy this under such conditions. People were watching us wishing they had thought about doing the same. Just about five minutes before the show, miraculously the rain suddenly stopped, the sky cleared and the music started. It is difficult to describe how beautiful the whole experience was. The Celtic music, the lights, the photo reflexions on the Cathedral's facade, the luminous jets of water, the whole thing. The show lasted more than a half hour and it left us numb. There were concerts in all the squares, exhibits, conferences and all sorts of shows all throughout the town. Once the crowds cleared, we headed straight for the Parador Nacional where we had a night cap, got a taxi and retired for the night.

On Friday, July 25, The Day of The Saint we got up early had a wonderful breakfast at the hotel before heading for the Cathedral for the Holy Mass that would have all of the pomp and circumstance and would be celebrated by the Bishop of Santiago aided by many priests. This, for all the pilgrims believers and non believers is the true culmination of their pilgrimage. There is a musical procession before the mass and the service is attended by all kinds of government representatives, often The King and Queen--Juan Carlos was meeting with Chavez in Cuba--reason for his absence. This is the day when the famous solid sterling BOTAFUMEIRO (giant incense burner) is suspended and swung across the church after the service. Since Libia and I got there early, we were able to find places just behind the section that had been reserved for all the dignitaries. The service was quite special, with an initial procession of uniformed guards, members of different ancient fraternities and a shrine of The Saint in solid gold carried in by quite a few men. At the end of the mass, the Botafumeiro was swung, and as the crowd came out, another one just as large, was waiting for the next mass.

We met Justo outside in the square, and walked over to have lunch at a nearby restaurant which filled up as soon as we came in. Libia and I had an incredible lobster rice and Stella and Justo had a type of prime rib that it could have fed 4 people. After lunch, we did some shopping, and went back to the hotel early enough to pack our suitcases. Our flight to Madrid was leaving at 7:30 the next morning. Stella and Justo stayed one more day in Santiago, returned the car in San Sebastian and we all met again in Madrid the following week.




Hotel San Francisco, old Franciscan Monastery



Waiting for the show



A photo does not do it justice



Overcome by emotion



Gold statue of St. James of Compostela



Members of the Fraternity of St. James



Botafumeiro



Waiting to get in



The Cathedral

PEDROUZO TO SANTIAGO (THE LAST LEG)

The alarm went off at 5:00 AM. We showered, got ready and left Pension Orca at 6:00 AM in total darkness. We could feel the heaviness of the air outside. The humidity was unbearable, and as soon as we left, we started to hear thunder in the distance. It was pitch black, so I took out my little flashlight, our life saver that day. We turned into a forest almost immediately, sprinkle soon turned into rain. This was the first day we had had rain in the entire walk. Still in the dark, we spotted a house with an overhang, so we stood under it for a few minutes until it let up. We could hear people coming behind us, but could not see them. They caught up to us and soon disappeared in the mist. They wanted to rush to get to Santiago for the noon mass in the cathedral. We had left without breakfast, so by the time it turned light, we were very hungry with a few km. to go before the first cafe. Finally, around 8:30 we saw the place, but there were lots of people having breakfast, many waiting to be served by a lone cranky waitress, who seemed to go into a fit with every order she got. After more than a half hour wait, she finally took our order, we had our coffees, OJ's and croissants and continued on our way in the constant drizzle of the day. The leg had some short uphills, quite a few, but they did not seem bad, since there was no sun or heat beating on us. We walked along the back of the airport and 2 hours later we arrived at Lavacolla, a crystal clear brook of reddish sand, where according to tradition, the pilgrims would wash to be presentable for their arrival at the Cathedral in Santiago. Hence, the name--Lava(wash) -- colla(rear end-behind.) Of all the legs on our walk this was the least pretty. From Lavacolla on, the presence of the urban area is evident, even if it cannot be always seen. The traffic noise of the highways is forever present. The last climb before Santiago is to El Monte de Gozo or Joy Hill. This was the place from where the city of Santiago could be seen below, and evidence of only few minutes until our arrival. Today there is a large monument at the very top and down below, the small chapel of San Marcos where we had our next to last stamp placed on our credentials. From there, it took us an hour to get to the Plaza del Obradoiro, the beautiful and imposing square where one enters the cathedral. We went to take a picture and found out the battery the camera had run out of juice. It was almost 2:00 PM and the noon mass was still going on in the Cathedral. On this day, the 23 of July, the mass was special, full of folklore and tradition. It was the Mass of the Floral Offers so many adults and children were dressed in the different costumes of the regions and there was Galician bagpipe music and lovely singing. I guess that the shock of our sudden arrival and the fact that we were sort of thrown into this spectacle we did not expect, kept us from feeling what I anticipated would be a feeling of euphoria. After all, we had been walking for 12 days and we had reached our destination!. No small feat, but I guess no big deal, either.

As we left the church and were coming down the steps, we ran into our young friends Francisco and Alex, the ones we had walked with to O'Cebreiro. We were all so excited to see each-other. They hugged and kissed us and told us they were staying at the refugio in Monte de Gozo one hour uphill from Santiago. They were going to stay 3 nights and had to have their gear with them all the time while in the city. They were going to attend the next mass and enjoy the city. The most beautiful feature of the cathedral which is the Portico de La Gloria, the enormous and beautifully carved tympan whose main column holds the statue of Christ was blocked off due to restoration for the Holy Year which will be in 2010. That means that the 25 of July, the day of Santiago de Compostela, Patron of Spain falls on a Sunday and The Pope himself will be there officiating the Pilgrims' Mass.

Justo was waiting for us in front of the Cathedral to take us to lunch to celebrate our arrival. Lunch was at the restaurant in Los Reyes Catolicos, the Parador Nacional in Santiago, a five star hotel and a band former monastery. Needless to say, the food and wines were spectacular, and after a meal of almost 3 hours, we walked to Justo and Stella's hotel, The San Francisco and got a taxi to take us to our hotel The Gran Hotel Santiago, close to the University in the modern part of town. The hotel is excellent, in the architectural style of the new Hyatts with center courtyard and waterfalls and balconies with overhanging plants. We showered, rested, did our laundry and changed into our dresses. In the evening we were meeting Justo and Stella for some tapas in the Casco Viejo--historical center of town. We did so under the magical mist of Santiago. Time flew, and before we knew it, it was past 11:00 PM, we took a taxi and went back to our wonderful hotel.




A wet stop before Santiago



Walking up to El Monte de Gozo



A Templar Pilgrim



The Cathedral of Santiago upon our arrival

CASTANEDA TO PEDROUZO

Today was one of the hottest days since the start of our walk. We left our lovely place after breakfast as the sun's first rays were painting the fields in hues of purples, oranges and yellows. We were to meet Stella and Justo in Arzua at around 9:00 AM, where we arrived just on time. We went through a beautiful little town called Ribadiso de Baixo, and to get to it we had to cross an ancient stone bridge over the River Baixo. Once we left Ribadiso, we kept on climbing quite a way along the N547. As we arrived in Arzua, Justo and Stella were loading their car with their suitcases. Stella wanted to get some walking sticks for the rest of the way, but she could not find what she wanted. She borrowed Justo's walking stick. (Justo was still recovering from a foot operation.) Once we left the town, we walked for some time inside a dense oak forest, through small stone hamlets and eucalyptus forests. In Boavista we found a cafe and sat down to eat and rest. The sun was incredibly hot and we felt pretty tired. We continued our climb and for some time walked behind the group of young students that were traveling with the priests. There was quite a climb up to El Alto de Sta. Irene. We saw an incredibly inviting creek, so we dipped our bandanas in its icy cold waters, put them around our necks and felt totally renewed. Stella and Libia took their shoes off and took a foot bath in this delicious water. A few kms. later we stopped at a restaurant along the N547 to have a cold drink. I do not remember having been so thirsty. We called Justo to find out where he was, and he was just returning for a day trip to the Rias Bajas. He met us at the bar, bought us a cold beer, so after that, we really had to make an effort to go on walking, but we did. Stella left with justo to meet us in Pedrouzo and Libia and I continued on our way. We started our descent and when we got to Rua, the group of young kids we had been walking with had set up camp behind a little chapel, they had found a hose and were all playing in the water. How we wished we could do the same! From there to Pedrouzo the distance seem so long, although it was only a few kilometers. When we finally arrived in town and spotted our hotel down below, we could not believe our eyes. Stella was sitting outside all showered and pretty and looking as she had just had a day in the park. She told us her room was too hot, reason for her being outside. Our room, on the other hand had a different orientation, therefore no heat problem. It was very nice and it had a fantastic shower. Libia took a nap while I showered and washed my clothes. I went downstairs to meet Stella and Justo and they had cold drinks waiting for us in the salon. Someone had recommended the Restaurante O'Pino, which we had passed by on the way to town. The food and the wines were fantastic. We ate a lot of seafood and Galician specialties and so enjoyed this wonderful meal. Back at the hotel, we set the alarm for 5:00 AM. We wanted to set off early on the day we would be arriving in Santiago.




Ribadiso de Baixo



Deliciously fresh water for our bottles



30 Km to go!



An Horreo bridge!



Hydrangea lined path



This is heaven!